12/05/2016

PRO-TIPS: HOW TO PREVENT & STOP SHINY OR OILY SKIN


As a makeup artist working on people who stand in front of a camera all day my biggest issue is shine. Sometimes I like shine and I want it (Tracey Anderson does the best shine on Sons of Anarchy and Fear The Walking Dead) and there are times when I really don't. I'm not talking about the natural-healthy-glow-shine that I love, I'm talking about the shine when I'm watching TV and I have no idea what the presenter is saying as I'm completely mesmerised but the forehead or nose shining like a beacon and that is all I can see on the screen in front of me, it's so off-putting. Stopping and fixing shine may not seem important but it's probably one of the most basic and underrated skills a makeup artist can have. It's such a simple thing but if you can't do it what ever lovely makeup you've done will be ruined. On men it's an equally important skill, as a makeup artist the last thing you want to do is run in every few minutes to powder or blot, distracting the talent and annoying a crew by holding up the shoot.

After perfecting my skills on TV shows for over a decade I'm pretty confident I'm a shine expert and I've got my system down perfect. There are some great products and tools to stop shine which I'm going to share with you and these work for makeup artists and regular-life people, cos no-one wants a shiny face. And none of them involve blotting papers which personally I find quite gross.

Truthfully my secret is not to stop shine but to prevent it and there is only one product for that, and it's this Murad moisturiser.* This moisturiser is straight up phenomenal for people who sweat or get shiny, or if you have someone going under hot lights who are likely to sweat and get shiny and you don't want them to this is your lifesaver product. If you only get shiny on your nose just apply it only on the nose (or forehead), that's what I do on most people. This product is a godsend for makeup artists and regular-life people, men and women alike. I can't stress how much you need this in your kit, it's changed my life.

Another pro-tip is to apply Milk of Magnesia on very oily skin (note, it does not prevent sweating or shine due to sweat, it just stops skin getting oily). The brilliant Kelley Mitchell (Makeup Department Head on Glee and Scream Queens) shared this tip with me in her 'Meet The Artists interview'* and she swears by it. I've since done it, it works great. Kelley's advice is to brush on a light layer of Milk of Magnesia before foundation, let it dry for a few minutes & don't worry if it turns white, whatever your skin colour once you put your foundation on it will go away. Makeup will last all day and it really controls the oil.

Kryolan 'Perfect Matt'* is another solid kit staple for applying under makeup. I swore by this product for years until I tried the Murad moisturiser, which kind of made this defunct for me. However I would never not have this my kit as under very hot lights or on very hot days or on people who I know are real sweaters I have doubled up this over the Murad moisturiser and like magic no touch ups are needed for hours. This combo works so hard sometimes I go in to powder/touch up just so it looks like I'm working not because I actually need to.

Sisley 'Instant Perfect'* works the same as Kryolan 'Perfect Matt', you can also add it on over makeup which is great, making it a good staple to keep in a handbag or set bag. I personally find this to be a phenomenal product, and where it works best, when you want to stop shine and you don't have any foundation on. You can apply with a finger and it means you don't have to carry a powder compact, mirror and brush around. It's better than powder as it leaves your skin looking natural and not like you've matted with powder. This is an excellent buy if you often don't wear a base. You only need a little and it lasts ages.

A final thought I'd like to leave you with; matting shine and sweat with powder is a terrible idea. It does little to prevent further shine and sweat, which then congeals with the powder leaving a blotchy residue. Plus layers of powder never look natural, especially noticeable on men. If you do want to powder use MAC Blot Powder as it deposits no colour and works great, like a non-gross blotting powder if you will. But if you start off using the right products to prevent it happening you're half way to winning the race.

Read my "Meet The Artists' interview series for loads of great tips like these from the best Makeup Artists in the world. Great reading for anyone but especially makeup artists.

* To find Murad Oil Control Mattifier in the US & Canada go here.
* To find Sisley Instant Perfect in US & Canada go here.

You can follow me on Twitter here and Instagram here (@anniemakeup).

3 comments:

  1. Are you starting to notice the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles? Don't just put up with these signs of ageing, there is a solution. Read on to find out how Essence Of Argan can help you get back your once youthful appearance and restore your confidence.

    Survival Skill for Physical Fitness

    ReplyDelete
  2. e to Makeup Monday on Julie's Lifestyle. I will post about a certain type of makeup, nail polish, face or hair product etc. It will be a fun place to come visit about anything to do with beauty. https://www.lindalinomakeup.com/

    ReplyDelete

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...