03/06/2015

MEET THE ARTISTS - JULIE HEWETT

For anyone who wants to work in film Julie's career is the career of dreams. Starting off on huge classics like Heathers, Liar Liar and Batman Forever, Julie progressed into Department Heading some of the biggest movies of the last twenty years; Oceans 11, 12 and 13, Pearl Harbour, Spiderman 2, Solaris, Magic Mike and Saving Mr Banks are just a small list. Julie also works on films as the personal makeup artist to many stars such as Annette Benning, Barbara Streisand, Al Pacino, Diane lane, Jodie Foster, Hilary Swank and Nicole Kidman to, again, name just a few. Utilising her experience in over 30 years in film Julie also built her own successful 'Julie Hewitt' makeup line which is sold all over the world and a favourite among makeup artists. Currently working as Makeup Department Head on Brad Pitts' new film 'The Big Short', also starring Ryan Gosling, Christian Bale and a heap of other stars, Julie took some time to tell me about her career and of course share some of her best tips.

 
A snapshot of Julie's 30 year career

MANW: How did you start your career and what was the progression it took?
JH: I started out as a fashion designer, I went to Parsons School of Design in NYC where we studied fashion illustration and anatomy, which turned out to be my training as a makeup artist as I sat around school drawing faces. When the fashion business turned out not to be my thing I started doing make up. I had some friends who were doing non-union movies and I sort of just fell into it!!!


MANW: You mainly work as the makeup department head in film, did you ever want to work in fashion or beauty?
JH: I have always wanted to do editorial beauty but in LA movies and red carpet are the thing to do here. Presently I want to collaborate with a fashion house and bring my products to the runway and I want to design the makeup for a collection. It's going to finally happen later this year.


MANW: Do you have a preference for the type of jobs and makeups you like to do? Do you prefer designing or being personal to one person on movies, and do you prefer straight or effects makeup?
JH: I like variety but I truly love doing period looks. I love designing a show or the face of one person. When you do one person it is a real journey into the character.. I really like to do both. My heart is in beauty but creating characters is so much fun. 


MANW: What is your process of creating character looks and how much say do you have in the designs?
JH: Creating looks is a collaboration between hair, makeup and costume. We create the look with the actor, with final approval from the Director and Director of Photography.

MANW: You have worked on some legendary movies; American Beauty, Pearl Harbour, Oceans 11 and with a long list of greats; Annette Benning, Nicole Kidman, Al Pacino, Barbara Streisand, Jodie Foster and Diane Lane..it's a very long list! Can you tell us about some of the stand out moments of your career?
JH: When I was asked to design the makeup on 'The Artist' I sat with the director and the DP who gave me references of silent films to watch for inspiration, it was helpful to get in tune with the period. Translating into black and white was a challenge to get just right. This film was a stand out moment in my career, I loved making it, it was such a love letter to movies. I got nominated for a BAFTA which was such a thrill, and a thrill to attend the BAFTA Awards in the UK. 


MANW: You've been in the industry a long time, how do you think it has differed and what advice would you give to new artists starting out?
JH: My advice for artists starting out is always just do it.. makeup everyone, work in a job with makeup, document your work and develop your style. And you will need passion to succeed. 


MANW: All artists have 'the wish list'; a face they would love to work on or a show or film they would have loved to have worked on. One of mine has always been Bugsy Malone (Tallulah) and a current one is Nashville, I'm obsessed with the country glamour and Connie Britton's hair. Who or what are yours?
JH: I would like to do a sixties movie. I also love the 40s, I was always inspired by Greta Garbo. My Dad gave me a book called 'Four Fabulous Faces' and that was it for me.

MANW: What are your top 5 holy grail kit products?
JH: My Julie Hewitt Camellia Oil, you can apply makeup on top and it creates this amazing natural (not greasy!) glow. My Julie Hewitt 'Noir Lipsticks', 'Camellia Balm', 'Cheekies' and 'Shimmy'. I also love Face Atelier and Armani Silk foundations, Tatcha blotting papers, SK2 face masks and Natura Bisse Diamond Cream. 


MANW: What's your best makeup artist tip to give women?
JH: My best tip is to make your foundation flawless, however, I tell women all the time the better your skin is the less makeup you need.


MANW: Finally, false eyelashes - the longer the better or enough already they look ridiculous?
JH: I love lashes!!! I cannot have enough. Individuals, strips or tons of mascara or all is fine with me. Its flirty and feminine, however, older gals do best with a bit more subtlety. In LA it is a big thing to get extensions which, when they are done correctly, look so beautiful and flattering.

For more info on Julie's career go here or follow her on Twitter here. You can view her makeup and beauty product lines here, and here in the UK. 

If you liked this interview and would like to read other leading industry makeup artists stories have a look at the rest of the series here.

29/05/2015

THE BEST 'MUST-HAVE' EYEBROW PENCILS


Growing up I had the thickest eyebrows, like Brooke Shields in the 80s (above left), but I have had the shittest eyebrows for over 20 years and it's all Linda Evangelista fault. When she shot to fame with her pencil-thin eyebrows in the early 90s (above right) I plucked my eyebrows so thin and they never grew back properly. For the last 20 years I have tried every kind of brow pencil and shadow there is to fill in my gaps (I even had them tattooed which hurt like hell and didn't work), and these are my favourites (in no particular order) tested on myself and in my kit. These are the one's you will always find in my makeup bag and all of my handbags as I never leave the house without one of the following.*







ALWAYS use a spoolie (brow comb) to brush your brows after pencilling as this softens the pencil so you don't look like you have drawn them on (no scouse brows). These favourites are all retractable which is perfect, no need for sharpeners, and they all glide on and LAST. Except the MAC and Clinique ones (keep up guys), they all come with a spoolie on the other end which is genius for throwing in your handbag, one less thing to carry and more hygenic.

Please note these pencils are perfect for serious filling in, if you have great brows (lucky you) my preferred way of defining them is with an angled brush and matching eyeshadow, that is a much softer and flattering look.

To buy in America go here:
MAC

* Ps. if you ever see me in person the best thing you can say to me is your eyebrows look great.

You can follow me on Twitter here and Instagram here (@anniemakeup).

26/05/2015

NATURAL DEODORANTS - THE GOOD & BAD LOWDOWN


I feel like chemicals in deodorants are well known to be a cause of Breast Cancer, but maybe a lot of people don't know that since the number of affordable chemical-free deodorants is extremely low compared to the amount of 'supermarket' deodorants, and not that easy to find. Aluminium is the main chemical that many companies are starting to omit from their deodorants (Sanex for example), but it's not just Aluminium you want to avoid. I have the BRCA1 gene, which statistically means I am rather likely to get breast cancer at some point, so I am quite fanatical about what I eat (see my Instagram for lots of no-sugar and non-processed recipes) and I don't want to use a deodorant with any chemicals increasing my breast cancer risk. But I also don't want to smell, which is why it has become my life's mission to find a natural deodorant that works as well as my brilliant Dove dry stick.

I will say the results have not been good. While I never usually write about bad products (this blog is only about sharing the great and good) I'm going to add every natural deodorant I try and say truthfully whether it worked or not. I will continue to add to the list as my hunt goes on, we only need one good one and I'm still hopeful! 

I'm not a particularly smelly person so the first test for every deodorant is just doing regular house stuff on a day off, nothing too strenuous. If they pass, the next test is a regular work day (leaving the house, using public transport, changing temperatures, running from the makeup room to set etc). If they pass that then the final test is a full work day plus a hard HIT gym session. I will continue to update this list so please come back and check, and if you have any recommendations for me to try let me know!




1. Soap Walla Deodorant Cream (£12.95/$14)
The best so far, this deodorant is fantastic and passes every test. It was recommended to me by a very hairy guy and he has never had a problem with smelling so I think the rest of us are safe. An excellent product, it does exactly what you need it to, however it's the worst design ever made. It comes as a cream in a pot so you have to use your fingers to get it out which I hate. I have to then go back in the bathroom to wash my hands which sucks in the morning rush, and it takes tons of soap to get off your fingers. Plus it gets under your nails when you get it out the small pot, wasting so much product. I have tweeted and emailed this small company numerous times to ask/beg them to make it in a stick format and they have never replied, not a fan of poor customer service. If this came in a stick form it would be the worlds best deodorant. It's also ridiculously pricey for a deodorant.

2. L'Erbolario Meharees Crema Deodorant £8/$13

This is as good as Soap Walla (although I think Soap Walla is more hardcore in a sports situation), plus I love the smell but others may not as it is quite heady. It is also a cream that needs to be applied with fingers which I cannot stand. It does come in a tube so there is no wastage or stuck under nails but I hate I have to go back to the bathroom to wash my hands and it takes so much soap to remove. If they made this in a stick form it would be excellent. Again, so pricey for a deodorant.

3. Dermalogica Enviromental Control Deodorant £16.24/$22

I love Dermalogica, it's one of the best brands out there but not for deodorants. This gave me no protection for the first test of walking round my house. It does have a lot of very good reviews so maybe this was just me. Price is insane for a deodorant, although it's pretty big and would probably last a long time.

4. Melivita Purifying Deodorant 24 Hour Effectiveness £11

and
5. Melvita Sensitive Skin Deodorant £11
Melvita is a lovely brand, they make lots of fab products that I highly recommend, including the best smelling body oils in the entire world, but both their deodorants gave me no protection and failed the first test.

6. Le Couvent Des Minimes Everyday Natural Deodorant £7/£13.50

A very nice affordable French body and skincare brand, they do lovely gift sets and particularly great hand and feet creams for very dry skin. The deodorant gave no protection and failed the first test.


If you want to read my reviews of other great 100% natural products, click here.


Follow me on Twitter here and Instagram here (@anniemakeup).

21/05/2015

VIRIDIAN ORGANIC ROSE OIL - THE BEST THING FOR YOUR SKIN..EVER!



I don't want to be overly dramatic but I think this must be the greatest stuff of dreams. I have said this just a few times on the blog, not many, and I stand by each one.. this is one of the best products I have ever used, it is truly amazing and everyone should have it. I talked about Viridian products before, they are a wonderful family owned-and-run company that I discovered on my 100% natural products search. They have a large range of award-winning pure vitamins, beauty oils, and speciality supplements (go here to see more about the company and some of my other Viridian favourites).

This Rose oil is a mix of the best oils you can use for your skin in their purest form. The ingredients are wonderful oils to use alone if you wanted to, especially Rosehip, Neroli and Vitamin E, however Viridan has made a wonderful mix that I cannot rave about enough. Blended for dry and dehydrated skin (which we ALL have unless you're drinking only 3 litres of pure water a day) and great for ageing skin, blemishes and acne, this premium organic ultimate oil is formulated without any synthetic fragrances or colourings and contains Rose and Neroli oil, among other oils, to restore elasticity and repair and firm dry, damaged and blemished skin. See below for the oil breakdown and benefits.*

This oil has a very short surface time on the skin which means it is rapidly absorbed without leaving any residue. I use this on everyone's face before I put one their makeup (male and female), no matter how oily their face is, especially if I am in a rush.. it works better and faster than any other cream. My great tip for everyone, and other makeup artists, is if you have to quickly apply makeup over makeup, first smooth some of this oil and it will stop your makeup caking on top of the old makeup. It is perfect for every kind of skin type, issue and complaint, and it's invaluable for makeup artists to have in their kit.. no more caked makeup no matter how dry your actors skin is, or flare ups from sensitive skins. I also love how small the bottle is, it's perfect for travelling. The only down side is it's a little pricey for 15ml, especially compared with larger bottles of pure Rosehip oil at half the price.



*Rosehip Oil is amazing as a daily moisturiser on its own. It is incredible for smoothing fine lines and evening skintone, great for anti-ageing, perfect for sensitive skin, excellent at cell and tissue regeneration for dermatitis, acne, eczema and repairing acne scars, and exceptional for dry and dehydrated skin. It rapidly absorbs leaves no oily residue.

*Buckthorn Oil reduces skin inflammation and promotes the natural skin restorative processes. This oil is well tolerated by any type of skin and provides long term anti-inflammatory, restorative and revitalizing action.

*Pomegranate Seed Oil moisturises and nourishes skin, restores the skins correct pH balance, fights damage-causing free radicals and leaves skin super soft and smooth.

*Neroli Oil is excellent for skin cell regeneration and improving skin elasticity, great for acne. When used in combination with Rose Oil they work together to firm the skin, smooth wrinkles and eliminate blemishes, capillaries and redness.

*Rose Oil is a wonderful anti-inflammatory agent and tissue regenerator. It is also high in antioxidants and offers amazing properties of hydration and redness reduction.

*Elderberry Oil contains over 80% essential fatty acids, key elements of healthy skin. It is an effective emollient and is particularly good for skin products designed to prevent or reduce dry skin conditions over a long term basis. It helps improve skin smoothness and elasticity whilst improving skin barrier function by reducing trans-epidermal water loss.

*Almond Oil is excellent for moisturising and is often used to treat dry skin. It also contains vitamin E and vitamin D.

*Hazelnut Oil has proved to be very effective in tightening the skin, acting as a superb toner for the skin. It also aids in the regeneration of cells and strengthening of capillaries.

*Sesame Seed Oil is great for keeping skin moisturised, healthy, hydrated and nourished, excellent for dry skin care and skin rejuvenation. Helps reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and maintain youthful skin, it's also known to be beneficial treating skin related disorders like psoriasis and eczema.

*Evening Primrose oil nourishing effects on skin, useful in relieving various conditions including dermatitis and eczema


*To buy in America go here and change the currency.

Follow me on Twitter here and Instagram here (@anniemakeup).

18/05/2015

MEET THE ARTISTS - LISA CAVALLI-GREEN

I am fiercely proud of British comedy and Lisa Cavalli-Green has the career I dreamt of, creating some of our most iconic and celebrated ground-breaking comedy characters where the makeup has undoubtedly been a significant part of each characters success. From The Day Today, Brass Eye, Alan Partridge Knowing me Knowing you, to Paul and Pauline Calf, Rock Profiles, Come Fly with me and of course the incomparable Little Britain. If you have watched TV in the past 20 years you will have seen plenty of Lisa's work and certainly marvelled at it. 3 BAFTA nominations, 4 RTS awards, 5 RTS nominations and a BAFTA win for Little Britain, which was the first ever award for a sketch show in the same category as accomplished dramas..unheard of at the time. From The Lee Evans Show, The Lenny Henry Show, Shooting Stars, Extras, Derek and The IT Crowd it is fair to say that Lisa has been the bar-raising queen of sketch comedy and character makeup and I'm thrilled she took some time to tell me about her career path, stories, filming advice and of course, her favourite products. 

Snapshot of Lisa's legendary career

MANW: How did you start your career and what was the progression it took?
LCG: I started my career back in 1978. I was incredibly lucky to be one of three girls taken on by the then ITV weekday provider Thames Television. Having already trained as a hairdresser, the in-house school taught us make up, prosthetics and all aspects of wigs, hairdressing, tinting etc. The course lasted 3 months and then we were trainees for 3 years. They took on 9 people in total over 3 years and all of us have done really well in our careers. Based at Teddington studios I had experience in children's TV, drama and comedy, with the odd trip to Euston to cover the live news. I also did a couple of films whilst with Thames as well. We had the most amazing training, while being paid, and the experience was invaluable.

Eventually Thames lost its franchise and I went freelance. I was again incredibly fortunate as one of my first jobs was to design the iconic satirical news show 'The Day Today'. There I met Steve Coogan with whom I was to go on to work with on the 'Knowing You Knowing Me with Alan Partridge' series. Comedy jobs snowballed from then on. I enjoyed the process of creating characters and after meeting Matt Lucas and David Walliams on 'Shooting Stars' I went on to do the 'Little Britain' series with them. I have worked with them on all their character based shows, which has been really exciting.


MANW: You mainly work in sketch/comedy TV and movies with a focus on character makeups, did you ever want to work in fashion or beauty, or even a serious drama?

LCG: I did have brief forays into fashion in my early freelance days but I love the relationship you have with actors and a script. 

MANW: Do you have a preference for the type of jobs and make-ups you like to do, and do you prefer the more comical characters makeup? 
LCG: 37 years on (it does not feel like that long!) I like to vary my work more. I really enjoy drama and have done more of that over the past years, the joy is being able to do both! Commercials are playing more in my life at the moment too. 

MANW: You have so many famous character makeups, everyone has a favourite Little Britain character. What is your process of creating character looks and how much say do you have in the designs? 
LCG: The process of creating characters is often just about compromise; the actor may have an idea, the producers, director and runner may well all put their views in too! For 'Little Britain' I took a great many photos of real people, mostly at car boot sales where the whole of human life will pass you by! All the characters in LB and 'Come Fly With Me' are based on real people. The most important thing about creating a character for a sketch show is that the viewer is not distracted by what they look like, so they listen to what is being said and laugh at the script. The look should just be right that the viewer accepts them and listens, so it's never really about making a big make up, more about a piece of a jigsaw that fits alongside all the other components. The costume, set, lighting, sound and direction are all part of it and it needs them all on the same page to make it work. I create their whole lives, where they live, how much money they have to spend and then we would only use products we knew they could afford. Having a good make up team with you is vital, no-one does a show single handed. I have been so fortunate to work with truly brilliant people who have become life long friends

MANW: How much do logisitcal issues come into play with character designs, were there any ever limitations on something you wanted to do? and how do you keep continuity on characters through so many series.
LCG: Time is most often the big issue with creating characters. There are often just one or two main artists and six weeks to shoot, as in the case of Come Fly With Me where there are well over 100 characters. The shoot day is 12 hrs so you don’t want to spend more than an hour in make-up first thing, I try to keep to an hour unless it is a big prosthetic. Money is the second big limiter. Making a budget fit is hard, you have to decide what characters to spend more or less on, some work better cheaper by doing less whilst others need everything. Keeping continuity is easy with digital photography, and although there are now Apps for this I still like a good old fashioned file! More of a worry is keeping track of all the tiny bits for each character, teeth, nails, eyebrows, plumpers etc for over 100 characters!

MANW: You have worked on some legendary shows, I still regularly watch old episodes of The Day Today on YouTube! Extras, Derek, The IT Crowd, working with Lenny Henry and Lee Evans, Shooting Stars, the list of comedy greats goes on. Can you tell us about some of the stand out moments of your career? 
LCG: There have been some truly outstanding moments in my career. My first ever day on set was watching Leonard Rossiter and Morcambe and Wise dressed as the Andrew sisters, miming to 'Boogie Bugle Boy of Company B' all in drag, it was so brilliant I wanted to clap at the end! Being in shot on 'The Kenny Everett Show' was another, it was a new thing then to show the crew and it was enormous fun. Making up Diana Ross and working with a live orchestra on 'The Des O'Connor shows, and winning my first RTS award and B.A.F.T.A for 'Little Britain' was just incredible. It was the first BAFTA to be awarded to a Sketch Comedy for which I was doubly proud. Being lucky enough to watch what feels like a private showing of performances by some of the most amazing actors in the world are often stand out moments for me, like watching Armando Ianucci making magic on 'The Day Today'. Many performances have moved me, Judi Dench's character talking about missing England in a film I did in Thailand and Ricky Gervais's speech in the 'Extras' Special series finale where his character is in a mock up Big Brother house talking about celebrity sticks in my mind. So many and all so diverse, what other job could give you so much?

MANW: You've been in the industry a long time, how do you think it has differed and what advice would you give to new artists starting out? 
LCG: Its such a different world to start out in makeup now. It it the most asked question on my email and the one closest to my heart. There are so many makeup schools of which very few are actually worth the huge sums of money they charge. People are forced to start a freelance career in debt which is very hard let alone trying to live and work in London. My suggestions would be;

1. Before you do any course have a good look at the type of career you want, don't just think you will do all types of make up, that does not happen. People who work in Film and TV do not do weddings or beauty, they are separate careers and it is a waste of money doing a large course when you are only ever going to do one.
2. Try to go out for a day with different people who work in the genre you want. If you find it hard finding and making connections to do this, THIS is what it's like when you work in the business until you build up your connections. Be resourceful. It's only when you spend time watching what the makeup person is doing that you will realise if it's for you.
3. Can you get up really early? Can you drive, have your own car, find your way around Britain? What are you like when you are tired? This is really important as working 15 hour days standing out in the freezing rain or snow is not uncommon. Can you do your own accounts? You will be responsible for all your invoices and accounting. Are you a naturally organised person?
4. Are you a happy giving person with the patience of a saint? Are you good with people? You cannot be shy.
5. If you want to work in television, and this is so important, YOU MUST BE ABLE TO CUT HAIR WELL, it is not enough to just dress hair. I have hundreds of CV's from trainees who have spent a fortune training who I cannot use because they cannot do hair. When choosing a school if you want to work in TV make sure that hairdressing is fully covered, you cannot learn hairdressing in 2 weeks! My advice would be to train in hair first properly, do an NVQ and then do a short course in makeup.
6. If you want to do prosthetics go and train with a company that just does prosthetics, that will be the only way you will learn enough to be employed to do the job.

Many people have a good career doing makeup for all sorts of other things, weddings, beauty, make overs etc. Just dont spend money doing a course that you are only ever going to use one part of, find the course that suits your career.

MANW: All artists have 'the wish list'; a face they would love to work on or a show or film they would have loved to have worked on. I would have loved to have worked on The Day Today, an absolute genius of a show with so many fun characters and wonderful makeups, and of course The Mighty Boosh which has brilliant makeup by the insanely talented Christine Cant. Who or what are yours?
LCG: I would loved to have worked with some of the greats, David Niven, Bette Davis, I bet she was a scream! Peter Ustinov and Fred Astaire. To go back in time and visit the makeup department on 'The Wizard of OZ' or any of the Busby Berkeley films just to see how they manage to get that many women ready first thing in the morning! I think we have come a long way in makeup and prosthetic design but some of the old Hollywood greats standard still amazes me.

MANW: On to the good stuff, what are your tricks for flawless looking skin?
LCG: My trick for a flawless looking skin is to be healthy; at well, sleep well and don't be too thin! Have a fine base and only use cover up where it's needed, nothing is more unflattering than thick caked on base. Add a bit of liquid moisturiser to the base on the neck area, if your face is a different colour to your neck you have the wrong colour foundation on! And cream blusher in a soft colour applied where you would naturally catch the sun makes for a healthy look. I am saddened by the amount of women who feel the need to botox their faces. Why do we feel that looking young is so important? Why are all the top (male) cosmetic surgeons not making themselves look younger? 

MANW: What are your top 5 holy grail kit products? 
LCG: My all-time favourite foundation was Lancome Color ID which they discontinued! So now I am a big fan of Le Maquillage. Paul Mitchell's 'Freeze and Shine' is a truly fab product and they don't test on animals. Dermalogica Barrier Repair for mending any skin problem and their Skin Smoothing cream to mix with foundation. Bio Derma Crealine H2O micellar solution, the first of the cleansing 'Waters', is an amazing product that removes all makeup without leaving a greasy residue so you can immediately apply another makeup. Lancome waterproof mascara stays on all day and doesn’t drop.

MANW: What's your best make-up artist tip to give women?
LCG: Don't be afraid to age, wear less makeup unless its for fun, eat well, sleep well and most importantly value yourself for who you are not what you look like or wear!.................you don’t have to look like a Kardashian!

MANW: Finally, false eyelashes - the longer the better or enough already they look ridiculous?
LCG: False eyelashes have their place, in period make-up you couldn’t do the 60's without them. If you are wearing them now, unless you are doing it for a fun evening look, only wear more natural ones or individual ones to boost your own. Make sure they are shorter nearer the corner of the eye and they should get longer as they go toward the outer edge so your eyes look wider..pantomime cow is not a good look! And remember that when you take them off you are going to feel bald!

For more info on Lisa visit her website here or you can see her IMDB page here.



If you liked this interview and would like to read other leading industry makeup artists stories have a look at the rest of the series here.

12/05/2015

ERBORIAN SLEEPING BB MASK


Erborian is a lovely Korean brand, really well known in France and Asia for their BB and CC creams, who recently launched their own BB sleeping mask specially formulated to work while you sleep and "transform your skin for a velvety, ultra-soft, spotless finish" (their words). It's made from a concentrated combination of herbs used for centuries in Asia for their anti-ageing properties that give a baby softness and velvety texture to the skin, revitalise tired and stressed skin and also deeply moisturise.

This particular sleeping BB Mask works very nicely, I found it worked very well at fighting signs of stress and redness, and it left my skin feeling soft and silky as promised. And while I personally really like this mask I would also say that you will probably get great results if you sleep with any brilliant mask left on overnight. I've said this in many blog posts for such a long time.. why wash a mask off at night, just sleep in it! If you have a good mask that works for your skin try sleeping in it and giving it eight hours to work instead of 10 minutes. If you don't have a regular mask this lovely Erborian one is a great option to try.

To buy in US go here.

You can follow me on Twitter here and Instagram here (@anniemakeup).

23/04/2015

UMAE EXPO - MUST READ FOR MAKEUP ARTISTS

*I try very hard for this blog to be about education for the masses as well as makeup artists, so apologies for the exclusion but this post is only relevant to makeup artists.*

 

Demo's by Paul Merchant & Joey Bevan for Kryolan, Mac Pro, Kenny Myers for PPI, Vincent De Monfreid, 
Bloody Marvellous and Daniel Parker for PAM London 

If you're a makeup artist and you don't know about UMA Expo that is entirely possible since it only had it's 3rd annual show last week in London. UMAE is an annual, UK based, professional show for makeup artists and if you've been to IMATS it is nothing like that; there are no huge crowds stopping you from reaching the stands or the talks you want to get to. I will admit I haven't been to an IMATS show in maybe 8 years, the last one I attended was crazy busy, difficult to circumvent and was impossible to reach the stands to see or purchase anything as the crowds were so thick. Last weeks UMAE was a completely different experience, it's like
 the grown-up responsible show that's a pleasure to attend. It is much smaller and not excessively busy, very easy to walk around and easy to get in and out the classes and demo's back on to the main floor. The brands on sale are only brands that professionals use and it's a fantastic opportunity to buy kit supplies at very good discounts and get to see products being used and ask lots of questions from knowledgable people who have time to answer you. The best part of the show is that it really is only frequented by professional makeup artists who are working in the industry, you are very likely to be standing next to Catherine Scoble the BAFTA winning makeup designer of This Is England or Mark Coulier, Oscar winning makeup co-designer for Grand Budapest Hotel, also shopping and chatting with friends and colleagues.

Chris McGowan, the lovely guy who started UMAE, is really big on education and you can see that throughout the show. The education over the weekend was another level, a truly fantastic opportunity to really watch and learn from some of the best working artists in the business, as well as getting full demo's from suppliers themselves who actually make or supply the products. There were continued classes going on all through the weekend by the main pro brands; Mac Pro had various pro classes and workshops by senior pro artists. Kryolan had various classes including a red carpet contouring class and demos by Paul Merchant with incredible styling by Joey Bevan, as did Illamsqua, House of Glamdolls, Tattooed Now and airbrushing classes by Mistair/Sterex. There were workshops held by brilliant makeup artists who regularly work in Film and TV; Brian Kinney for Full Slap FX ran two different classes on flat silicone moulds, Stuart Bray had a painting skin tones on silicone prosthetics class and Mandy J Gold demo'ed a fab avant grade medieval makeup. Also among the plethora of speakers talking was Oscar winning master makeup artist Greg Cannom. The classes and talks were additional to the fantastic demo's taking place at the stands on the main floor (the amazing Kenny Myers, Stuart Bray and Dan Gilbert at the PPI stand (where I like to hang out), Shaun Harrison at the PS Composites stand, tattoos by Daniel Parker and burns by Rob Crafer at PAM London, and body painting by JT Makeup Studio to name just a few). The speakers and classes were extremely well thought out and I wanted to go to all of them.

  

Demo's by Shaun Harrison for PS Composites, PJ Merchant for Kryolan, JT Makeup Studio, Rob Crafer for PAM London, Stuart Bray for PPI, and Screenface

What UMAE offers over its two day weekend is incredible and I can't really stress how much I enjoyed it, and the very chilled out crowd factor played a major part. There are brilliant demo's happening at nearly all the stands and it's so great that you can actually stand right up close and watch them happening and ask the artist questions. There are a lot of makeup 'masters' at the show, especially (always) at the PPI stand, who are genuinely lovely people and happy to talk to you and answer questions. There is literally no other place or time in the world you can talk to the legendary Stephanie Kaye and ask her about wigs (google her).

It's only UMAE's third year and while I love the size it is now I'm sure it will continue to get bigger and busier every year. My advice to all professional UK hair & makeup artists.. if you are interested in education, learning and getting great discounts from brands you can only get from the professional stores such as PAM, Screenface, Charles Fox, Love Makeup, MaqPro and Guru then it's worth the trip to London to do your shopping at the show and soak up the ridiculous amount of knowledge that is in that room. I've never been anywhere that is so completely dedicated solely to professionals and it's utterly at your fingertips to take as much from it as you want to.

Also, while I have your attention, UK hair & makeup artists who work on screen, please, please visit and join NASMAH.

Ps. Check out my 'Meet The Artist' interviews, a great learning resource 
and really interesting readings with brilliant artists whose careers go back decades.

You can follow me on Twitter here and Instagram here (@anniemakeup).


17/04/2015

SANCTUARY SPA ILLUMINATING MOISTURISER - BEST OF THE CHEAP CREAMS



As much as Creme De Lar Mer is wonderful (it really is) it's also way out of my price range, and probably a lot of peoples. I personally don't buy in to the more money something costs the better it is (see my list of amazing and cheap all natural products here) and this Sanctuary Spa Illuminating Moisturiser is definitely one of those cases. I used to religiously use this moisturiser in my 20's, I don't remember why I stopped but I had forgotten all about it until the lovely people at Sanctuary Spa let me raid their cupboard a few months ago and I've been using it ever since. It's just as great as I remembered, it sinks in really well and never looks greasy, I really love the radiant glow it gives me. I It makes my skin look healthy and smooth and I find it's a great base for makeup. I also think it's really good for combination on the dryer side and for sensitive skin as this never bothers my skin, and everything usually bothers me. It has a good basic SPF 15 sunscreen but you should still use another one, even in winter (these are my favourites for applying under makeup). I love this moisturiser, I've got nothing but love and good things to say about it, plus it's a massive bargain at £13.50.

*Boots have a great deal at the moment buy one and get any other Sanctuary Spa product half off.

You can follow me on Twitter here and Instagram here (@anniemakeup).

07/04/2015

MEET THE ARTISTS - DAVID DE LEON

Currently working as Ellen Degeneres makeup artist on The Ellen Degeneres Show David has a very long and impressive CV. He has worked on huge movies including Meet the Fockers, Pirates Of The Caribbean, Memoirs of a Geisha, Star Trek: Enterprise, and as personal makeup artist to many a hollywood legend including; Barbra Streisand, Jane Fonda, Racquel Welch, Shania Twain, Cybil Shepherd, Molly Shannon, Portia De Rossi and Tippi Hedren. David kindly took time to speak to me and share his career stories, and as always I asked him to share some of his pro tips.


David De Leon

MANW: How did you start your career and what was the progression it took?
DDL: I actually started doing makeup in high school when I did the makeup for a school production of Our Town! In my early twenties I was an esthetician/makeup artist in salons and I gradually made the transition to film and television through theatre and no/low budget and student films.


MANW: You mainly work in TV and fillm, did you ever want to work in fashion or beauty?
DDL: The bulk of my work has been television and film but I love fashion and take a lot of inspiration from the print world. I'm also lucky that a lot of my clients will request me for print and red carpet jobs.

MANW: Do you have a preference for the type of jobs and make-ups you like to do? Do you prefer designing films or being personal to one person and straight makeup over effects makeup?
DDL: On my resume you'll see a big cross section of work, from personal to dept. head and effects, to beauty. I do think at this stage though I am primarily sought out for my beauty work which I love!

MANW: What is your process of creating character looks and how much say do you have in the designs? 
DDL: As far as designing a character every production is different. Some directors and show creators have very specific ideas on the look of their characters, some rely totally on my creativity and discretion. A fun example that differed from the norm was Pushing Daisies; Bryan Fuller wanted a total fantasy world that included Old Hollywood and classic 60's mod! Every character was designed by myself and Todd McIntosh with specific film, television and fashion references from Bryan.

MANW: You have worked on some fantastic shows and films with some true legends like Barbra Streisand, Jane Fonda, Cybil Shepherd and Racquel Welch. Can you tell us about some of the stand out moments of your career? 
DDL: There have been so many stand out moments for me; Pirates of the Caribbean, Star Trek, Angel and working with my Idol Barbra Streisand. Right now I'm having a fantastic time working with Ellen Degeneres!

MANW: You've been in the industry a long time, how do you think it has differed and what advice would you give to new artists starting out?
DDL: The qualities that a makeup artist should have remain the same; great skills, good listener, punctuality and a professional physical presentation (from your kit to your clothes) are all crucial elements to a makeup career. The industry has become less localised and more global in nature, but being in the right place at the right time and being ready for when the opportunities arise is also crucial.

MANW: All artists have 'the wish list'; a face they would love to work on or a show or film they would have loved to have worked on. I would have loved to have worked on Sons of Anarchy, the tattoos and effects by Tracey Anderson were excellent but my current one is Nashville and Connie Britton's hair.  Who or what are yours?
DDL: I would love to work with Meryl Streep but she has thankfully been devoted to her one makeup artist for her entire career so I guess I'll just continue to enjoy their collaboration like the rest of the world does. There are so many amazing faces I have yet to paint, I couldn't name them all.

MANW: On to the good stuff, what are your tricks for flawless looking skin?
DDL:  Flawless looking skin is really a marriage between deft painting and blending and good lighting.

MANW: What are your top 5 holy grail kit products? 
DDL: Beauty blender sponges, urban decay eyeshadow palettes, skin illustrator palettes, Armani cream foundation and Evian spray.

MANW: What's your best make-up artist tip to give women?
DDL: Keep it simple and find what works for your face and be open to adjusting for age and fashion. 

MANW: Finally, false eyelashes - the longer the better or enough already they look ridiculous?
DDL: I personally loooove lashes, but they may be a bit much for daytime. Lol!


For more info on David visit his website here or follow him on Twitter here.


If you liked this interview and would like to read other leading industry makeup artists stories have a look at the rest of the series here.

03/04/2015

BUMBLE & BUMBLE PRET-A-POWDER - BIG HAIR DON'T CARE!


Last year I named Bumble & Bumble Thickening Dryspun Finish as the greatest product EVER and I still stand by that but their Pret-A-Powder is a pretty strong equal. Also known as magic powder (by me) this little beauty is equal parts dry shampoo, style extender and volume that you powder on to the roots (the bottle is like a talc powder bottle). It's the perfect product for all types of hair and texture who want more body and texture, particularly ideal for fine or oily hair and hair between shampoos. It works equally great at extending the life of a blow dry as it does for creating big (or just bigg-er) textured do's.

Use on dry hair when styling, shake powder gently at the roots and massage in to create instant lift, a good tip is to really massage it in properly as the more you massage it in the better it works. It leaves no residue or sticky feeling (as some styling powders tend to do) with a nice and fresh fragrance that's not an overpowering or sickly smell like a lot of dry shampoos. It's also a great packaging size, so much better than a large aerosol can and very portable. The small handbag size is great.


This powder is so much better than a regular dry shampoo spray, it's as much a styling product as it is a volumiser or dry shampoo. I love it, well worth the money. A great tip for braid wearers is to shake the powder down the braid length to give them more texture and look bigger, just shake and pull the hairs apart to widen the braid.



*To buy in America go here 

You can follow me on Twitter here and Instagram here (@anniemakeup).

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