THE RICK EDWARDS QUIFF TEST

The 'Rick Edwards Quiff Test'

Seeing Anne Hathaway's new hair at this years Met Ball I realised I do lots of posts about products for long hair but not that many on short hair. I work with lots of male TV presenters and bands so I've become quite a connoisseur on men's hair products, while also learning that men are very particular about their hair. I've had nightmares about Rick's quiff melting under hot studio lights and I would honestly cry if that ever happened (thank god it hasn't), have you seen how high that thing is! Thankfully I have such great products in my kit arsenal for short-keep-up-in-place styles, all of whom have passed what I like to call the 'Rick Edwards Quiff Test'.

I'm very thankful for these amazing products that make my life so much easier and thought I should share them with you as it's not the 1950s and quite a lot of women do have short hair (gasp). I can absolutely guarantee these will hold up the highest and swaggiest of styles because if they pass the Rick Edwards Quiff Test under studio lights they'll pass anyone's test.

1. Bumble and Bumble Sumotech £21.50/$27

2. Sebastian Microweb Fibre £12.29/$16.95

3. Tommyguns Texturing Paste With Oranges & Limes £6.50/$NA 

(Not as strong as the other two but makes up for it as the best smelling product ever made) 

RADICAL INSTANT REVITALISING MASK - WOW!

Radical Instant Revitalising Mask £40/$65

I understand modern products are an amazing feat of science and companies proudly want to shout about that but I feel like every new product is PR'd with so much confusing science that I glaze over and don't really care for. For example, while looking up this product description on various internet stores these were the descriptions given:

"The Instant Revitalizing Mask is the ideal coach for the skin: it delivers the nutrients necessary for hydration and regeneration while teaching it to breathe, improves respiration of the skin, stimulates energy production, stocks up on energy and optimize its oxygen resources in rarefied conditions. It delivers a complex of natural active ingredients to the skin, stimulating energy production and simultaneously controlling oxidation reactions."

WHAT? My brain hurts. All I want to know is what does it do? I'm only interested in the words, repair, protect, youthful glow and line eraser (well, I can wish) and unless you have a chemistry degree or plenty of time to google I'm sure you also want to know what it actually does in plain terms so I will tell you.

This mask gave me skin so soft my face felt like my 2 year old nephews body (amazingly soft and kissable). I cant believe how soft, smooth and brighter my face was and still is two days later, I can't stop touching it. It's described as an intensive treatment to regenerate the skin, protect from damaging free radicals and repair against environmental damage which sounds wonderful but I haven't been using it long enough to report any long term difference. I have only used it once and I was so gobsmacked how great my skin felt (it really is amazing) that I wanted to blog about it right away. Putting the long term effects aside, as you won't really know until you've used it for a while, this mask is fantastic as an excellent quick fix for bright smooth skin and would be ideal to use before a special day or night out. The price isn't bad for 30ml as Radical products are extremely good value for money, their packaging holds SO much product.. I've been using their eye cream nightly for two months and barely used 50% of the bottle.

The most notable thing is that it's different to normal masks and feels a bit bizarre while it's drying, I wasn't aware how it worked and I got a bit of shock when I heard my face fizzing. It was quite fascinating watching the mask fizzle away in the mirror and I really love that it's fast working as it didn't take more than a few minutes to dry to nothing on the face, very cool!  I'm very impressed with this mask and definitely happy with my results, I also did a quick internet search to read other reviews who all said the same as me which is great to know.

Has anyone tried Radical products? I'd love to hear other experiences.

HOW I PREP ALL MODELS/ CELEB FACES STEP BY STEP

Flawless skin on Made in Chelsea's Binky Felstead

While I was writing a recent post I mentioned I used a certain product on all models and I thought a post on how I prep peoples skin while I'm working might be interesting to readers (or maybe not!). I firmly believe it doesn't matter what makeup you put on someone as long as the foundation is good, and by foundation I mean the base layer (your skin) not the makeup. Everything starts with the skin, if you don't have good skin as a base to do your makeup it doesn't matter how expensive your makeup is it will look rubbish, and on the flip side of that statement if you have fantastic skin you can use the cheapest products you can find in Boots or Target and it will look amazing. Everything is and always is all about the skin. When I work with someone new I have no idea how they are going to show up and what their skin is like. Often peoples skin looks fine but as soon as I put makeup on it cakes as their skin is so dehydrated, so I try to give people the best base I can before applying any makeup so that the makeup will look as good as possible.

And this is what I do for everyone..

1. I start by cleaning their face even if they tell me they have no makeup on. I'm limited to products that don't need rinsing off and I always use La Roche Posay Micellar Solution. I trust this brand implicitly that it wont react with anyone and so far it never has.

2. If I'm not under time pressure and they tell me their skin is quite dry or they've had late nights/early starts or they've been travelling on planes I apply Sisley Flower Express Mask which is quite incredible. It only needs 3 minutes to work and doesn't need rinsing off, it's a makeup artists dream tool.

3. I then thoroughly massage Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Serum into the face and I really take my time doing this.

4. I then apply a moisturiser depending on the skin. I have a few different ones I use varying for oily skin to sensitive, dry or mature skin and I massage it in.

5. Unless someone has very oily skin or we're doing a very matte look I then apply Dr Haushka Toned Cream or one of my favourite primers which, again, I massage in.

and then I apply my foundation. I don't know how helpful this was but if you learn anything from this it's that massaging products into your face really does make a difference.

THE PERFECT HIGHLIGHTERS & HOW NOT TO USE THEM

Gorgeous glow

Blog regulars will know I'm obsessed about skincare, sometimes I feel like I don't talk enough about makeup considering I'm a makeup artist. Well not this post! I've talked before how I love the dewy skinned look and it's quite easy to get with the right products. Highlighters are fantastic for giving that extra 'wow' glow and done right they look beautiful but done wrong they look appalling, very unflattering and super tarty (sorry just my opinion). 

I have worked my way through a multitude of highlighters over my career, I was obsessed with a Revlon one that I bought in Canada donkeys years ago. I scraped every little bit out of that tube that I could, it never came out in the UK and then they discontinued it, devastating. I never really found another cream one that I liked to be honest. Cream ones don't really look good over makeup, they look much better applied on skin and other makeup built around it, but I never remember to do this. Also most cream highlighters are really only for the young, as soon as you throw fine lines and wrinkles into the mix it's not pleasant, they settle in the cracks and 'highlight' them making them appear much worse. They're also not that great for people with less than perfect skin, once you start applying creams over coverage you're wiping away foundation and concealer and again 'highlighting' things you don't want to. That's my little history with cream highlighters, obviously they work like a dream on gorgeous models and celebrities but as a general rule for the general public (and myself) I generally steer clear.

I do however love a powder highlighter. Again some can be truly awful, the colour makes a huge difference, too pearly is a massive no no whatever age (unflattering and tarty). A powder highlighter is just that bit easier to control than a cream one, it wont affect your immaculate base after you've covered all your spots and redness perfectly and, to be honest, I would skip highlighter all together any where there are wrinkles but it can be a bit easier to avoid the lines with a powder and a small brush. And best of all powder can be the last step in the makeup, it doesn't matter if I forget or decide I want to add a bit of highlighter after I've finished.

So after that massive rigmarole I'll tell you the two I adore. I've sworn by the MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in Soft and Gentle (£21.50/$30) for ages, never using anything else but recently I tried the Laura Mercier Mineral Illuminating Powder in Candlelight (£26/$32) and it is stunning. The MAC is more of a glow and the Laura Mercier is more of a gold highlight but they're both amazing and quite frankly I'm set for highlighters now, I don't need to discover any more. 

Both the gorgeous highlighted looks in the top photos were done with the MAC Mineralise highlighter. If you want to see the full makeup tutorials for both looks you can watch them on my YouTube channel here.

HOW I RUINED MY HAIR AND MY 'EXTENSION PROFESSIONAL' HAIR EXTENSIONS

If you follow me on Twitter you'll know I had hair extensions about 6 weeks ago and if that is something you have thought about doing you should read this post. This is quite a photo heavy post which is unusual for me, you rarely see photos of me up here. I think that's a makeup artist thing, it's never meant to be about us. But I need to give you the history and I'm going to do it with a whole lot of selfies*. I was blonde through most of my twenties, this is me 25 in 2002, don't mind the guy he runs a club (Tao) in Vegas now if you're ever out there. 

I went back brown when I was 28 and had some great shiny hair years. I had lovely thick healthy shiny hair, we all agree?

Spring 2011 I decided to go back blonde, I missed it. This is the first full head of highlights I had from brown and with hindsight maybe I should of stopped here. It needs a trim but it's still pretty great long thick hair. I have hair envy for my own hair. 

This is the next full head of highlights a few months later about September 2011. Going creamier, should almost definitely have stopped here.

This is the Made In Chelsea live studio show at the end of Season 2, December 2011. Could. not. be. creamier. Why didn't I stop here??

This is the Made in Chelsea live studio show at the end of Season 3, June 2012. Definitely yellow and definitely looking thinner. (I have to stand on a chair to do Rick's hair & makeup)

Three months later by September 2012 half my hair had snapped off and parts of the top layer were just a few inches long, I know it's not death or cancer but still upsetting all the same. I quit blonde cold turkey and dyed my hair brown to try let it grow. I have cut off so much dead end and it is still in really dreadful condition. I went to Thailand in January this year for 3 weeks and spent the entire trip with my hair scraped back in this style, coated with deep treatment masks. It grew 3 inches in 3 weeks.

Where the underneath is not that bad the front and top layer is appalling and in the most awful state. I can't cut it as my long hair will become a pixie cut, and that's never gonna happen, all I can do is keep cutting the top layer as it grows a bit longer and eventually (hopefully) it will meet the bottom layer again in equal condition and thickness. THIS WILL TAKE YEARS. This photo is from 2013 London Fashion Week in February, it took a full set of rollers to get it to look this thick. I've hidden the short top layers very well.

And then I saw THIS. Ree's hair looks amazing!!! (read her post if you want more examples) I went straight to the Extension Pro website and read every single word, then I messaged Louise right away and had them fitted the next week. I need to back this up with I have never had extensions and I never would have extensions. I have seen so many peoples hair ruined by extensions that is was something I never would have given a thought to but Ree's testimony that not one hair got damaged backed up the website claims and gave me enough comfort to go ahead, and I made Louise swear it wouldn't damage my hair any more that it already was. The extension hair wraps around your own hair and glues to itself, allowing a tube like seal to be manipulated around the natural hair so there is no glue touching your hair, very clever really. And then your hair can grow and stay strong underneath. When they remove it they spray a solution on to dissolve the bond and it just slides off leaving no damage.

The whole process took about an hour and it looked amazing. Louise matched my hair colour perfectly, you would NEVER know. I did for a hot minute think to leave it like this (go big or go home) but common sense prevailed.

I never even thought how important it is to have a good stylist fit extensions but they have to cut them to your hair and blend them in so it's important to get a good hairdresser do it, it has to look natural once they're fitted. Here are my before/after photos, it looks so much better don't you think? I didn't add length I just added volume. The back after photo looks like a Pantene advert!

It looks really flat in the after photos but once you wash it it kind of fluffs out to proper thick hair and looks awesome. They took me a few days to get used to, for the first few nights I could feel them when I laid my head on the pillow, it didn't hurt it just felt weird. But they didn't take long to loosen and after a few days I didn't feel them at all. Before the extensions my hair looked appalling straight, (err see photo above) it only looked ok if I tonged it, which is a vicious circle as the heat is making my hair worse. For me the best thing about these extensions is they look great on their own, I don't have to do anything to them, I've only curled them once for my Cosmopolitan hair videos, other than that I've not put any heat on them which is exactly what my hair needs right now. Look at the difference now from my February photo just 2 months ago!

The extensions need to come off or be replaced between 10-12 weeks, my hair should have grown about 3 inches by then, that's 3 inches of healthy not heat touched hair and I need every inch I can get! For me to get through this awful waiting for broken damaged hair to grow so I can cut it out, but with my hair looking great, has been amazing. The alternative would have been to cut the whole lot off (ahhh I find getting even a one inch trim a traumatic experience) so for me Extension Professional was the best decision ever, I honestly couldn't be happier. Louise is becoming the London hair extension person to go to because it's so safe, she's recently fitted extensions on Ellie Goulding, Caroline Flack, Stacey Solomon and Yasmin Le Bon. If extensions are something you are thinking about do make sure you get ones that won't damage your hair and a damn good stylist to fit and cut them. Extension Professional have their own hair extension training course so you should be able to find a stylist trained by Louise and using the Extension Professional hair all over the country.  I'll make sure to do an updated post when I get mine taken out. And if anyone knows how to make hair grow fast please let me know!

*apologies for all the selfies it won't happen again

MY FAVOURITE DRUGSTORE FOUNDATION

I love products that work and I really love products that work AND are cheap. I have such a massive kit full of expensive products that I don't really use a lot of drugstore foundations, so I'm not the biggest connoisseur of drugstore brands. However, and I know neither of these are particularly new but I tried both these recently and I love them. Sometimes you really don't need to spend a fortune if you don't have it.

Bourjois Healthy Mix Serum £10.99/$18.63 

Boy is this great, I've used this on myself on and off for a while. It gives such a lovely natural coverage with that dewy finish I adore. If you like a sheer base that you can build up where you need it this is the one to go for. It has such a lovely glow (probably not the best for oily skin types) that really does make you look healthy and radiant like the advert says. Comes with a great pump so no wastage, start of with a small amount as it spreads really well and a bottle will last a while. Comes in a not overwhelmingly impressive 6 shades.

Maybelline FIT £7.99/$5.94

Completely different type of foundation but also great. It's heavier than the Bourjois so if you prefer more coverage this is the one for you. For a heavy foundation it blends really well and looks so natural with a nice matte finish that isn't at all dry looking. Good for oiler skins, possibly not so much for dry skin. Only needs a few tiny pumps, a little goes a long way and a bottle will last ages. This is my first Maybelline foundation in over 15 years and I'm very impressed with it. Comes in 12 shades.

THE FULL LOW DOWN ON PRIMERS - DO YOU REALLY NEED ONE?

The reason I started this blog was mainly because I get asked a lot of the same questions over and over. After repeating myself for about 7 years I thought maybe I should write all this information I have (and still learn) down and I could just point people here when I'm asked "what's the best foundation?" for the zillionth time. The second most asked question I get is "what is the best mascara?" (see previous post) and a very close third is always about primers. I don't think people really understand primers and I think there are just as many people using them when they don't really need to as well as plenty of people not using them when it would probably help them because they're not quite sure what a primer is. So I've written everything I think you need to know about primers but, as always, if you have any other questions just post them in the comments section and I will happily answer for you.

My favourite primers

1. Primers seem to be a step that a lot of us skip, should we be using them daily? What do they do?
I tend to use primers when im working to give myself as much help as possible to keep the makeup looking fresh and long lasting under hot lights and sweaty conditions. Generally for day to day use it's not something everyone must have or need, it really depends on your skin type; if you have typically normal skin that holds makeup well then no, you probably don't need one. However, if you have dry or oily skin, or you plan to be out for a very long day or evening, it's another step that will work to make your makeup look better and last longer. Most of us try to get up and out to work as fast as we can in the morning and that extra step can be a pain, so it can be a good thing to invest in a base that does more than one thing. A good tinted BB cream or moisturiser with a high SPF mixed with a primer, or even used as a primer can be all you need.

2. Do different skin types need different primers?
The idea is to find one that works for you, someone with dry skin would want to find a more hydrating one than someone who gets shiny throughout the day. Someone who has great skin and doesn't want any coverage but gets shiny, a primer used alone is an excellent alternative to powdering throughout the day.

3. Are there any ingredients that we should be searching for in primers when looking to purchase?
It's always a good idea to check product ingredients for things that you know you react to or are allergic too, like lanolin for example. If you have oily skin it's a good idea to choose oil free products (and change your moisturiser). SPF is always an important factor in any item you're applying to your face and the higher the better.

4. How should we be applying them?
You really can just apply primer to the areas you feel you would benefit, most typically that would be the shiny t-zone area and the chin. Apply a small amount and let it sink in before applying the rest of your makeup (a good tip for all makeup bases).

5. What are my top primer picks?
Well I have a few that treat various needs. My favourites are MAC Face Protect protection Visage SPF 50, Estee Lauder Matte Perfecting Primer (for oily skin) and Laura Mercier have different types which are all great; hydrating, regular and oil free. Recently the lines between skincare and makeup science have blurred with fantastic new products emerging like BB or CC creams and perfecting creams that don't have the name primer but work fantastic as one whilst doing a whole heap of other great things for the skin. Some for example are Sisley Radiant Lift which is an excellent base for over 30s or whenever dullness from ageing has started to take effect. Sisley Instant Perfect (see my full review) for more mature skin works great to blur the lines and stops makeup caking in the cracks. And Estee Lauder have just brought out a new product Daywear Base SPF 50 thats reduces ageing, evens skin tone and also works wonderful as a primer. 

Always remember that like most makeup some products work differently on different people so try a few and see what works great for you. Ask at the makeup counters to take a sample home with you and try it out for a few days, if you don't notice much difference right away try another one. This is also a really good tip for foundation shopping, and take a few little pots with you in case they have run out of samples at the counter.

CHUBBY EYE STICKS - I'M OBSESSED!

I'm so crazy about chubby sticks, but lets start from the beginning. First there were eyeshadows which needs applying with one brush, blending with another, re-applying, more blending with a cleaner brush, then more applying etc. Then clean up the fallout mess and re-do the foundation/concealer you've wiped away cleaning up the fall out. Then came MAC paint pots and I was obsessed. So easy to apply with brush or fingers, even easier to blend with just one brush, I could create stunning smokey eyes in a minute that do.not.budge. Unlike eye shadows that crease.

Then came chubby sticks, and I really don't know how much easier it can get. I started off with Smashbox Shadow Liners (£17/$22), fell in love and then other brands followed. Maybelline have just bought out a range called Maybelline Master Smoky Shadow Pencil (£5.99/$NA) which are fab and like Smashbox come with a smudger on the other end, you really don't need another brush. Both these and the new amazing MAC ones that are coming out soon but haven't been released yet (perks of the job) you need to buy a separate sharpener as a regular pencil one is too small. All three of these are just small enough that they can also be used just as an eyeliner if you don't want to apply to the whole lid (but you can if you do).

And now there are Clinique Chubby Eye Sticks (£16/$16) who spawned the Chubby name with their lip pencils last year. These are a much more highlighter/glossy formula, there's no black or deep browns for a matte smokey eye. They are a group of 16 really wearable fantastic colours. As a nude/neutral colour obsessive I love Fuller Fudge, Ample Amber and Bountiful Beige (the perfect colours for anyone for every day). These sticks are fractionally bigger and cover the whole lid in 1 or 2 strokes, follow with your finger or any soft blending brush to smooth over the edge and that.is.it. It couldn't be easier! An added genius stroke is these Clinique ones are twist up so no need for sharpener, that is just so simple and brilliant.

I probably use paint pots more at work, but that's more to do with how each artist prefers to work. Since I discovered these sticks about 6 months ago they are all I've worn on myself. I wear Smashbox 'Charcoal' as a thick line on it's own or with the 'Metallic Marble' (a bronze colour) or Maybelline 'Smokey Chocolate' for a more dramatic evening look and I wear Clinique 'Ample Amber' or 'Bountiful Beige' every day, I literally spend about 3 seconds on my eyes. Chubby sticks could not be more fantastic or easier to use.. I love them!

MEET THE ARTISTS - ELI WAKAMATSU

Born and raised in Japan Eli Wakamatsu is an extremely well respected fashion and beauty makeup artist and Japanese beauty brand consultant. Eli, who has lived and worked in Paris, New York and Milan, has been based in London since the 1980s and has worked with some of the biggest high fashion brands in the world, along with world renowned photographers including Mario Testino, David LaChapelle and David Bailey. Eli has headed makeup teams for numerous catwalk Fashion Shows including Fendi, Gucci, Jean Charles de Castelbajac and Clements Ribeiro. Her celebrity clients include Alexa Chung, Keira Knightley, Helena Christensen and Gwen Stefani and her commercial brand CV is a long list of high-end luxury labels and well known commercial brands such as Prada, Joseph, Whistles, Paul Smith and Firetrap. Over the years her work has been published in all the major glossies and fashion magazines such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, i-D, Face, Elle, Arena, Allure and Marie Claire. Eli sat down with me to tell her fascinating story and, of course, share some of her wonderful tips and kit must haves.

A snapshot of a 20+ year fashion and beauty career

MANW: How did you start your career and what was the progression it took?

EW: A few years after I arrived in the UK from Japan, back in 80's, I visited Z agency with my portfolio and asked If I could join them, speaking only my pigeon English! Back then Z agency was the epicentre of London's fashion and trendy, new ideas. They represented young talent such as models, actors, stylists, hair and makeup artists, photographers and film makers in all areas of both art and commerce. I had noticed their credits on all the fashion magazines I loved, such as ID and Blits and I boldly decided to go see the owner, Ziggi Golding, with a self-built portfolio of a few black & white photos where I had done the casting, styling, hair and makeup and editing, basically everything to produce a story apart from taking the picture and printing it. To my complete surprise she gave me my very first chance and took me on. I started doing 'test' shoots to build my portfolio and I began working as a fashion and beauty makeup artist.

I worked for early iD magazine, Blits and I assisted Mary Greenwell at London Fashion Week who was also then represented by Z. During the 90's I carried on working with young and talented photographers such as Eddie Monsoon, Enrique Badulescu, Norbert Schober and Sean Ellis for the fashion magazines; ID, Face and Dazed and Confused, as well as newspaper fashion supplements. I also worked with the big music artists at the time; Eternal,Texas, All Saints and Mary J Blige, doing music videos or other appearances in and out of the UK. Work steadily progressed to the international campaign for Prada and Fendi, editorials for US and French Vogue followed, then catwalk shows in Milan, Paris and London throughout  the 90's into 2000's. I have been represented by the Emma Davies Agency since 2009 and since the birth of my son in 1995 I have had the privilege of being a working mum and making it work! My consulting work for London's BeautyMART, as their Japanese maven to introduce new brands from Japan to the UK and vice versa, came from my duel culture background. 

MANW: It's hard enough to break into the industry, was it very hard coming from Japan and finding work?
EW: I believe a handicap is only a handicap if you see it that way. Of course there was a cultural and language barrier which took me some time to grasp but, looking back on my career, my own uniqueness worked as nothing but an advantage and kept on giving me opportunities with each step I took.. I am deeply grateful to the tolerance and open minds of the creative world! Besides, as soon as you start to work internationally you find yourself working with teams from all over the world so I was no longer an 'outsider'.

MANW: You mainly do fashion and beauty makeup, were you ever tempted to work in TV or film or do any special effects makeup?
EW: I've done commercials, music videos and many shows with music artists, actresses and personalities for TV appearances but I haven't worked on a full-length feature film, I enjoy working on both big productions as well as intimate editorial shoots. My special effects makeup is totally self-taught which I've used on fashion shoots in the past and I have worked along side special effects teams which was very exciting. So far I mainly work in the fashion and beauty world but I never say never, who knows what is on offer next! 

MANW: Which do you prefer doing; editorial shoots, celebrities or fashion shows and why?
EW: I design and apply make up on all, so there isn't preference for me. Makeup always has its purpose, whether for editorial or commercial, appearance or cover shoot and it is always about team work and communication within the team. I feel that the element of team work is the most important part to achieve the best result.
I have always done a fair amount of location shoots in all sorts of extreme conditions like the African Savannah, South American deserts, in the icy Arctic or Urban Asia..extreme heat and cold! I guess I travel well because I enjoy it so I get to booked to do a lot of location shootings. Through this was not the case at all when I was starting off, I worked closely with photographers who worked solely in a studio, so even if I would fly all the way to America or another continent I would go straight to the studio from the airport.

MANW: You have had a very successful career with your work published in all the major glossies and numerous high profile campaigns.  Can you tell us about some of the stand out moments of your career? 
EW: I can tell you about some of the moments I got excited in my career which were largely when I had a lot of freedom to produce stories, sometimes it wasn't just for the makeup but for the overall process of making the story. These include my first editorial cover for ID magazine with model Rachel Wise in 1987 and a fashion story for The Face magazine in 1996 when I met  Alexander McQueen and Julien McDonald for the first time. My first US Vogue shoot with Stella Tennant in 1998 was very exciting, as was my Prada Campaign in 1988/89.  The Fendi campaign and catwalk show with Karl Largerfeld Spring 2000 was a big moment for me as was Italian Marie Claire in 2005, this was shot in the dark after sunset over San Pedro de Atacama, Chile which was one of the most memorable locations I have ever been. Marie Claire UK 'Orient Express' story in 2012 was also very special, we shot this story while travelling on the Orient Express train between Thailand to Malaysia for 3 days. I can still feel the shake of the train and Asia's humid air blowing through the open windows. And finally I am always most excited by my latest work! which is my New Empire Lines story in the April 2013 issue of Marie Claire UK.

MANW: You've been in the industry a long time, how do you think it has differed and what advice would you give to new artists starting out?
EW: Oh I think starting out is EASY compared to staying! You just do what you can, doing make up and anything related with it, just keep going. It might be to your advantage if you can do hair as well so that you are available for more jobs. The challenge is how you sustain your passion and enthusiasm in the industry. Within my career technology in both makeup and photography has changed so much, plus the way information is shared is totally different now so inevitably our outlet is more diverse and naturally there is more to do. With the current economy there seems to be more to do with less time, which means less time for the 'fun' part of work! 

I always preferred to work with a young assistant without much makeup training but very much a fashion enthusiast or film and art lover as I found it easier to communicate ideas. Anyone can master the technique, it's really not that hard, but it's much harder to develop creativity and intuition. When I started designing catwalk shows I needed to have my first assistant with a minimum height of 5'10. Due to my 5ft height I could not reach the models to do last minute touch ups once they were dressed with heels on!

MANW: All artists have 'the wish list'; a face they would love to work on. My current one is Jennifer Lawrence, she manages to have that Hollywood glamour while still being so young and beautiful. Who's on yours?
EW: I honestly can't think of one. I recently worked with Kelly Brook for the cover of Easy Living magazine and she was a joy to work with. We gave her a very pure and no make up look and she was so beautiful with it.

MANW: On to the good stuff, what are your tricks for flawless looking skin?
EW: Good prep always. First I use a good toner water as this gives plumpness to the skin and then I use Decleor Aroma Essence Oil, first by inhaling the aroma in your palms to relax and then releasing facial muscle tension with a light facial massage. This helps to uplift the face, it increases blood circulation to the face which gives a healthy glow. If the model needs it I will use a face mask while she's getting her hair done. A lot of the models I work with will have flown in to the shoot from abroad and will be dehydrated and suffering from the time difference. When their skin needs lots of TLC I use Shiseido Benefiance Pure Retinol Intensive Revitalizing face masks.

MANW: What are your top 5 holy grail kit products? 
EW: Shu Uemura Deep Sea water spray and Cleansing Oil, Decleor Aromessences, Dr Hauschika Lip balm, Sisley Eye Contour Mask which reduces fine lines and puffiness and Sisley Fluid Body sun cream SPF 30 (I love it so much that I use this whenever body needs slight sheen on a shoot). I also love Le Sourcil De Chanel eye brow kit, Dior eye shadow palettes, Bobbie Brown BBU Face Palette, Giorgio Armani Maestro Foundation, Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector and my own hand made lip palette.

MANW: What's your best make-up artist tip to give women?
EW: Good Skincare and use SPF protection from UV rays and other harmful factors.

MANW: Finally, false eyelashes - the longer the better or enough already they look ridiculous? 

EW: I think it is totally depends on what you want to achieve by using it and what you can carry, if you want to be bold go for a false look if not don't go there! There is no in between with these things, you either do it perfectly well and understated so you can't tell it's false or totally wear the false look.

To find out more about Eli you can visit her website, agent or talk to her on twitter.

DR HAUSCHKA TONED DAY CREAM - THE PERFECT PRODUCT!

Dr Hauschka Toned Day Cream £27.45/$39.95

I think I found another perfect product. This is my first Dr Hauschka product and I am so impressed, I cannot get over how amazing it is. It's described as a tinted moisturiser but It can be used alone as a day cream or applied, as I do, on top of your moisturiser. It give a healthy, radiant complexion that lasts all day that you can wear alone or under your foundation. It's transparent so it isn't providing coverage, it's more of a smoother with a tinted glow that any colour skin can wear. It suits all skin tones and gives a very light but radiant warm glow that really must be seen. It gives my skin the most amazing appearance, I often wear it alone or with a BB cream/ foundation over it and I've started to use it on all models before I do their base.

If you don't like to wear foundation this is the perfect product as it's barely noticeable on your face and hardly feels or looks like makeup going on, yet gives you all the benefits. And if you can't live without foundation skin looks incredible with this underneath. It's possibly not ideal for oily skin but it is perfect for dry and mature skin, and is excellent if you love a radiant glow whatever your skin type. This is a fantastic addition to beauty regimes, I really think this would be my desert island product. It also smells completely amazing which helps. A 30ml bottle will probably last quite a while, as it's such a sheer product you don't use very much. I've been using very small amounts as I don't want it to run out, but after 3 weeks of every day use on me and models it's hardly made much of a dent. They also sell a trial size bottle £4 which is a genius idea, I wish other brands did that.

PS. Have you entered my HUGE Beauty Giveaway? 

I'm giving away so many amazing products.. go check it out before the April 8th deadline.